How to Replace Disc Brake Pads
Uses F10BS Pads for SL 5.0 (HD-R510) or smaller E10.11 for SL 4.0 (HD-R290)
COMMENTS:
T. Evans, 10/28/22
I replaced the pads at 3000 miles. The rotor was warping and screeching when applying the brakes. With these little pads, 3000 miles was too long before replacing the pads.
Below is a picture of the pads. The rear pad (at the right) was 0 and 23 mils and the front pad (at the left) was 48 and 56 mils.
I found my F10BS replacement pads on Amazon.
Unlike the above video, I did not remove the caliper. I just removed the wheel and then removed the pads.
Next, I used a large screwdriver to seat the hydraulic pistons apart as completely as possible. If not, the new pads won't enter and the rotor will not enter with the new pads. Park Tool PP-1.2 is recommended, but I found a large screwdriver works fine.
After seating the pads and screwing in the locking pin, I pushed the pads open as wide as possible, again using a screwdriver.
I had to insert a small nut across the back of the pads to hold them open apart while sliding the rotor into position and entering the wheel axle. The above noted nut just automatically dropped out.
Because I did not remove the caliper, I did not need to reposition it.
Bikers
choice only had one set of pads for each wheel, but I wanted to keep a
bacup set. Not to advertise, but Bens Cycles was very helpful. They
recommended a semi metalic pad made by Alligator. They indicated the
semi-metalic in their experience had a much longer life than the
organic. For reference, I had 4,100 miles on my bike, and the pads were
well worn, but not down to metal like Toms..For reference the Alligator
pads "Suitable for Tektro HD-R510/R310, MD-C510, TPR Hylex".
Also
a note when installing, I had one of the pistons that was stuck, online they recommended pumping the brake to loosen it. If you do this, keep your finger in between the pistons, and GENTLY work the brake handle. I did this with a full hard pump and one of the pistons began falling out and the hydraulic oil started to spill out. Fortunately I caught it and pushed it back in and didn't get any air in the line. To release the piston, I had to insert the tips of a set of small needle nose pliers into the piston, then spread the pliers and gently work it slightly back and forth. Then I gently worked the brake with finger inserted to get that piston slightly out so I could clean it. I used qtips with alchohol and lens wipes overall to clean the break dust. As Tom stated above a large ended screwdriver was used to push back the
pistons so the shoes could be inserted. This is a very easy job especially if you don't have a stuck piston.
Bruce, 11/6/22
Disk brake pads. These (E10.11) are not what Tom ordered for his OEM replacement but per the web these are superior for durability and braking power.
From Tom 11/7/22, check with Tektro for compatibility. The VADO SL-4.0 uses HD-R290 for which the F10BS is supposed to be used. The sizes are slightly different.
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Good information. Locating the proper pad for the Tektro brakes on the Vado is not easy. Most of the online comments advised removing the your current pads to see the part number on the pad. I like to keep one spare ahead of consumables. Removing a brand new pad did not appeal to me. Now I don't have to. I've ordered a new chain, brake pads, and a hydraulic bleed kit.
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